Garden Notes with Judy Horton
Product and Seed of the Month Week 1: August gardening August sees the first stirrings of spring in the garden - but watch for those dreaded August winds and frosts! Vegies to sow in August - Tomatoes In warmer areas you can get tomatoes off to an early start by planting seeds into pots on a sunny indoor windowsill. Fill the pots with Yates Black Magic Seed Raising Mix, press the seeds into the top, cover with a light scattering of mix and water well. Thin out the crowded seedlings after they've germinated and feed every week with Black Magic Seedling Fertiliser or half strength Nitrosol. Plant outdoors in spring once frost danger has passed. Big Beef is far and away the most popular tomato in the Yates range but, if space is tight, try mini Tiny Tim in a pot. Flowers to sow in August - Nasturtiums Nasturtiums are very useful plants – all parts are edible and they're also said to have natural insect-repelling qualities. They're one of the easiest flowers to grow from seed and, because they don't germinate readily in hot weather, it's a good idea to sow the seeds into garden beds while it's still cool. Conversely, though, nasturtiums don't like frost so, in colder parts, it's safer to wait until well into spring before sowing. One advantage of gardening in colder parts is that you can make fresh sowings of cold-hardy plants like violas, Shirley poppies and cornflowers at this time of year. These will continue flowering well into spring - and even early summer - where it doesn't get too hot. Feed in August Strawberries are about to take off so this is a good time to tidy the plants, removing any dead material, and feed with Yates Blood & Bone. Get rid of any plants that are showing signs of disease and renew a layer of mulch like straw around the plants (remember, they aren't called 'strawberries' for nothing). Prune in August In most areas it's time to finish pruning roses although next month will be safer in really chilly parts. Sterilise secateurs between cuts by dipping into a disinfectant solution and treat large cuts with Bacseal pruning paint. This helps prevent disease entry. An all-over spray with Yates Lime Sulphur will also help control pest and diseases. August pest watch - Aphids
Succulent new shoots are much loved by aphids and other sap-sucking insect pests. Yates Insect Gun is a low toxic solution that comes in a ready-to-use trigger pack. For severe infestations, use Confidor – it's systemic, so it gets right inside the plant. Plant of the month – Deciduous magnolias Deciduous magnolias (Magnolia 'Vulcan', pictured) continue making a magnificent show in August. After flowering, sprinkle Blitzem or Baysol pellets around the base to control snails and slugs (they love young magnolia leaves), feed with Dynamic Lifter pellets and renew a layer of organic mulch over the shallow roots.
Week 2: Solving weed problems What exactly is a weed? Definitions abound, but a weed is generally considered to be a plant that's growing where it isn't wanted. And, as winter comes to an end, it often seems that the weeds are about to take over the entire garden. Onehunga weed, which usually causes problems in lawns, is one of the weeds you'll find starting to develop at this time of year. Onehunga weed is a soft, ferny-leafed plant that only reveals the nasty side of its nature when it produces its sharply-barbed seeds. These can make walking on the lawn in bare feet an utter misery. You can remove Onehunga weed with what's called a 'selective' weedkiller but, remember, if the weed has already formed its spiky seeds, it's sure to re-appear next year. Make a note to begin control earlier next season. Yates Prickle Weedkiller is a widely used selective herbicide that cleverly removes the non-grass weeds (like Onehunga weed) from the lawn, without damaging the grass. However, it's vitally important to read the label and carefully follow the instructions. Too-heavy applications will burn the grass. Yates Turfix and Turfix Gun are other selective weedkillers in the Yates range that will control Onehunga weed.
Many other lawn weeds – such as clover, dandelions, thistles and capeweed (pictured) - can also be removed with a selective weedkiller. Convenient, Hose-on Weed 'n' Feed combines a selective weedkiller with a lawn fertiliser – hence its descriptive name! Weeds in garden beds can be removed using a glyphosate herbicide such as Roundup. Roundup is available as a concentrate that's diluted in water before use. Glyphosate is non- selective, which means it will kill any plant material it contacts. This, obviously, means it must be applied with great care. Fortunately, though, it doesn't leave residues in the soil. Roundup Fast Action works even faster and begins to control weeds within 48 hours. It's available in two sizes in ready-to-use trigger packs. One easy way to apply glyhosate is with the clever invention, the Zero Weeding Brush. This is a hollow tube that's fitted with a sturdy brush at the end. After the tube is filled with a Zero mixture, the herbicide flows down the tube and onto the bristles where it can be 'brushed' onto weeds from arm's length. The flow of herbicide is controlled by a specially-designed valve. There's no bending! For longer-term weed control there is Yates Path Weed Spray, which also comes in a convenient trigger pack. This leaves a residual barrier that kills weeds and stops their seeds germinating in paths, driveways, tennis courts and on paved patios for up to twelve months. Yates Surrender removes moss, lichen, liverworts and algae from lawns, roofs, cobblestones, tiles and other hard surfaces. Week 3: Tackle garden problems in late winter There's always something trying to spoil your plants. If it isn't insect pests, it's diseases like black spot. But late winter is a good time to get rid of plant problems and set up the garden with the best possible start for spring. Roses, for example, can be given a clean- up Lime Sulphur spray immediately after pruning. But if your rose has already started to shoot, it's probably too late to use Lime Sulphur (which could burn the young leaves). Instead you should begin applying a good fungicide/insecticide/miticide such as Yates Rose Gun or Super Shield. Regular monitoring is the best way to prevent pests from spoiling your plants. Walk through the garden as often as you can and try to remove problems in their early stages. Insect pests can be easily picked off or squashed by hand while their numbers are still controllable. Most pest insects fall into two groups – either sap suckers or leaf eaters. Sap suckers are usually small – often minute - but they can be present in huge numbers.
Aphids are good examples. Aphids (pictured) suck sugary sap directly out of the youngest leaves. This weakens the plant and also causes twisting and curling of the new growth. In their early stages it's easy to remove sap suckers like aphids but, once numbers build up, you'll probably need to spray with an insecticide. Yates has a wide selection of controls to choose from. They include soap-based Yates Nature's Way Insect Spray, plant- extract pyrethrum or systemic Confidor. Confidor is most effective when used as a preventative to protect new season's foliage on pest-susceptible plants like azaleas. Scales are harder to control than aphids because these sap-sucking pests hide beneath protective coatings. Sometimes their sticky waste encourages growth of an ugly black fungus called sooty mould. To get rid of the mould, you need to remove the scale. You can do this in many cases with a systemic spray (Confidor) or an oil (like Yates Conqueror Spraying Oil). An old toothbrush, too, can be helpful in giving scales the 'brush-off'. Damage caused by leaf eaters is much easier to identify because leaf-eating pests literally chew holes in the leaves. Caterpillars are the most common – use naturally-derived Success - but also be on the lookout for other chewers like snails and slugs. When your plants are under attack, it's important to identify the pest or disease that's causing the damage before you attempt to do anything about it. One of your best friends in this task is the problem solver section of the Yates website www.yates.co.nz where there are pictures of garden problems, and commonsense suggestions for controlling them. Another option is to use a good identification book such as Yates Garden Problem Solver Week 4: Winter gold in the garden In what seems to be the garden's antidote to the lingering cold of winter, there are many warming displays of golden/yellow on show in August. Look out for examples such as: Acacias With many hundreds of species, there's an acacia in bloom at just about any time of year, especially in August. There's also a great choice of plant sizes, so you're sure to find one to fit your garden. Most wattles are notoriously short-lived, so don't expect your plant to be with you forever, but a light trim after flowering can encourage the plant to continue producing active, healthy growth. This is also a good time to give your wattle a feed with a gentle fertiliser such as Yates Blood & Bone. Yellow jasmine Yellow jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi ) is an old- fashioned shrub that is closely related to the climbing jasmines. Its arching stems are studded with semi-double, primrose-yellow blooms in August. While yellow jasmine is very hardy, it won't take heavy frosts. Cut back hard after flowering, completely removing the oldest canes, and feed the plants occasionally with some Dynamic Lifter pellets. Apart from that, they need very little extra care. Carolina jasmine Another jasmine name but, in this case, it isn't a true jasmine. But carolina jasmine is a climber, and it does have a perfume, so you can understand the automatic association. This twiner's small, bell-like blooms appear in late winter and spring. Their scent is reminiscent of a well-known baby powder. Daffodils and jonquils Every bulb grower dreams of having a 'host of golden daffodils' dotting the lawn. Of course, these days daffodils aren't always yellow - they can be white, cream or a faint pink - but the traditionalist still prefers the rich yellow of varieties such as King Alfred. In warmer areas jonquils and their relatives are more reliable performers than daffodils, with jonquil 'Soleil d'Or' providing a good display of yellow. In suitable climates and well-drained conditions, bulbs can be left in the ground from one year to the next. Once flowering has finished, the bulb begins building up reserves for next year. The most helpful thing to do at this stage is to water the leaves regularly with a soluble plant food such as Thrive or Nitrosol. Don't remove the leaves, no matter how untidy they look, until they have completely yellowed.
Citrus (orange, pictured) Although not always appreciated for the colour they bring to the garden, lemons, oranges, mandarins and their relatives add wonderful touches of yellow and gold in late winter. Ongoing care of citrus is simple: feed after harvest with Yates Thrive Citrus Food and watch out for pests like scales and aphids. For more information contact www.yates.co.nz